The Material Review
Issue 044: Denim Has Conquered the World, The Tuxedo Shirt Comeback, How Miami Got Viced and a Q&A with Finisterre's A. Todd.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
It’s a Blue-Jean World, Baby
“Whether you like boot-cut or boyfriend, low-waist or high, dark-wash or bleached, denim jeans have conquered the world” [Air Mail]
How Miami got Viced
“Michael Mann’s hit TV drama caught the city’s evolution into a coke-fuelled neon fantasy. It’s never looked back” [FT]
We’re in the Golden Age of Garbage Clothing
“Pilling sweaters, stretched-out socks, flimsy denim. What happened to good garments?” [The Walrus]
How the Pleated Tuxedo Shirt Is Breaking Free of Its Black-Tie Constraints
“Designers and formalwear aficionados on the once-banished style's surprising comeback.” [Robb Report]
Men’s High-Waisted Pants Are Back. This Millennial Is Thrilled. This Boomer Is Not.
“Countless menswear brands are pushing this old-timey style. Are these leg-lengthening throwbacks debonair—or unflattering and uncomfortable?” [WSJ]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Literary Sport Ashbery Jacket
Lady White Co. V Neck Snap Sweater
Hestra Henry Glove
J. Press x Buck Mason Shaggy Dog Sweater
Front General Store Loopwheel Sweatpants
Tortoise General Store
Comoli Denim Work Jacket
Hasami Teapot
Moonstar Alweather Olive Shoes
Ohto Wooden Mechanical Pencil 2.0mm
ANUNFOLD Side Pocket Tote Bag - White
Kamenoko Kitchen Scrubber
Kamado-san Rice Cooker Donabe White
In an increasingly overcrowded market, UK-based Finisterre stands out for its honest and practical approach to outdoor gear. We spoke to Head of Design, A. Todd, about some of his favorite niche brands, his carry-on bags and the rich outdoor life in Cornwall.
What's a niche brand you love?
I love niche brands. Especially the weird and wonderful Japanese ‘outdoor lifestyle’ ones like Wild Things Japan and South2 West8. I also love Danton for their outdoor workwear vibes. My current crush though is Industry Of All Nations, the US-based soft apparel brand making super considered and easy to wear pieces. Their approach to product is perfectly aligned with what we’re doing at Finisterre and I’m gradually collecting their jersey pieces. The classic pocket t-shirt with fine laid on collar and lightweight undyed cotton is my perfect tee and sits so nicely under a shirt.
What is something you’ve had your eye on?
It’s my job to have my eye on everything so this is a tough question! I spend so much time looking at products and brands for creative inspiration. It’s such a passion.
In terms of a few personal items I’ve got my eye on purely for selfish reasons. I’m having a moccasin moment and the Yuketen Blucher shoe with the Kiltie is very nice! I’m also dreaming of owning a Brompton folding bicycle so I can travel places and get straight on my bike when I get there. My current wardrobe is in a one in / one out situation so I’ll be jumping on Vinted to sell a few pieces and will most likely use the platform to seek out some nice replacements. New purchases have to warrant their place and be timeless. And finally, I cannot wait to get my hands on The Cure’s new album. Excited.
Can you recommend a book you have read recently?
Between being a designer, an artist, and a family man I don’t always get time to do lots of reading but when I do it’s typically factual and motivational stuff. I escape through my artwork and have never really been a fiction book kinda guy. My current read is Rick Rubin’s ‘The Creative Act: A Way of Being’. Super motivating, inspiring, and settling. Rick is such a visionary. I apply a lot of this thinking to all areas of my life. The book for me is up there with ‘Whatever You Think, Think The Opposite’ by Paul Arden. A classic.
What do you bring on the plane in your carry-on bag?
I’m a sucker for bags so getting the right luggage is a forever mission and an experiment. At the moment I’m using a Gregory Border Traveler which is like a soft backpack case that splits open like a suitcase. We’re doing some collaborative work with Gregory and have some amazing products planned for SS25. I always carry a waist-pack / sling too and am loyal to my Porter-Yoshida which I’ve had now for almost 20 years.
Typically I’ll always have an emergency versatile mid-layer stuffed in my bag. Finisterre’s ‘Firecrest’ is my go to. A bunch of gadgets: laptop, headphones, airplane plug-in wireless adapter, kindle etc.
I’ll make sure I have a water bottle with me as well as my Trtl travel neck pillow which is the best I’ve tried. I’d be lost without a Moleskine notebook. Has to be Black, A6, Hardback, and either dotted or squared pages. Never lined. I’ve just lost my special brass pen which breaks my heart, so I am using a nice drawing fine-liner which I can write and sketch with. Also, I’m not forgetting a peanut butter Clif Bar. Has saved the day on many occasions and is an absolute requirement!
What's your favorite outdoor destination and why do you love it?
We’re so lucky being based here in Cornwall. I love to travel and see new outdoor places but there’s just something about returning home and having a rich outdoor life on my doorstep. I like to run and ride my bike and connecting with the outdoors is really special. There are some ancient woodlands close to our old Cornish stone house which never fails to make me feel good when I venture through. The Atlantic Ocean is less than 3 miles away and right next to me on the East is Carn Brea, one of the first human settlements in Britain with gigantic stones stacked up on top of each other and proudly positioned up high on the hills. A magical place to gain some perspective….and for testing Finisterre products!