The Material Review
Issue 029: The Declassified US Army Lookbook, Shein's Mysterious Past, Fleas Across America, The New Airport Flex and a Spotlight On: Bags.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
Fashion with firepower: retro styles from the US Army lookbook – in pictures
“These declassified images from the US Army archives show combat designs through the decades – and their influence on fashion photography” [The Guardian]
The Mysterious, Meteoric Rise of Shein
“A murky founding story, a shadowy CEO, and a staggering takeover of American retail” [The Altantic]
Land of the Flea
“What America is buying and selling.” [The New Yorker]
Friends Don’t Let Friends Wear Chore Coats
“More like bore coats. Don’t waste light outerwear season by wearing the past-due workwear silhouette, GQ’s Noah Johnson implores.” [GQ]
‘The new digital flex’: the airport tray trend stirring outrage and delight
“High-end possessions artfully placed in grey plastic security trays are giving #foodstagram a run for its money” [The Guardian]
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
J. Crew Denim Work Shirt
Sunspel Long Sleeve Riviera Polo Shirt
Kardo Luis Shirt
Nanamica Field Jacket
Vintage MiUSA Levi’s 550s
Bags
DSPTCH Gym/Work Bag
Mafia Bags Corse Tote
Ghurka Examiner No. 5
Black Ember Boarding Kit
Waterford Designs Laptop Sleeve
Finding myself irrationally angry about that chore coat article. The author sounds like a petulant child with a platform, which gives me complete confidence to ignore every word he says and go on with my life wearing what I like whenever I feel it is appropriate.
Of course the GQ take is bad, he’s got the entire order of things flipped:
“If you’re like me and you feel the need to have nearly as many coats and jackets as you have shirts and pants, that’s fine, too.”
You should have more outerwear than pants and shirts!