The Material Review
Issue 051: The Origins of the "Blue-Collar Jacket", The History of Diné Textiles, A Mephisto Renaissance, Stimulating Shirts and a Spotlight on: Scarves.
Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.
The hard-working origins of the 'blue-collar jacket' – and other workwear classics
“The humble barn jacket, chore coat and donkey jacket have all gone from functional workwear to ‘It-item’. As a trend, is it a betrayal of the garments' US and UK working-class roots – or does it "honour the grit and resilience" that they represent? [BBC]
Weaving Through the History of Diné Textiles
“‘Horizons: Weaving Between the Lines with Diné Textiles’ brings together varied stylistic traditions and artists of different centuries to display the breadth of Diné weaving.” [Hyperallergic]
May I Interest You in Le Merch?
“A new Parisian start-up is selling merch — a word ‘you can’t even translate into French’ — for some old-school establishments.” [NYT]
Mephisto, the World’s Dorkiest Walking Shoe, Is Suddenly—Cool?
“Amid an orthopedic-shoe renaissance, fashionable people are flocking to the geriatric designs of a 59-year-old French footwear brand” [WSJ]
The Shopping Method That Isn’t Going Anywhere
“Some brands are returning to the print catalog in order to sell things on their terms.” [The Atlantic]
A Portrait of the Artist as an Amazon Reviewer
“Between 2003 and 2019, Kevin Killian published almost twenty-four hundred reviews on the site. Can they be considered literature?” [The New Yorker]
The Case for the ‘stimulating’ shirt
A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.
Faiz T.S. & Co. Cowichan Heavyweight Moto Knit Sweater
Catch Ball Suede Deck Shoes
Elmer Wool Pile Gloves
Bather Walnut Fleece Crewneck
Gurus Valencia Shoe
Scarves
Inis Meain Cream donegal wool and cashmere "Stonewall" scarf
William Lockie Ribbed Cashmere Scarf
American Trench Wool Fair Isle Scarf
Todd Snyder Floral Tailored Scarf
Norlha Nomad Classic Yak Wool Scarf
Classifieds
Welcome to our weekly “Classifieds” section of the newsletter. The idea is to find an easy way to promote things happening in our ecosystem. Think of this space to promote your eBay shop, event, newsletter, app, book, tool or your personal brand (if you must). Drop us a line at if you’re interested in buying an item in an upcoming issue. Price: $200 for four ads. Maximum 280 character per ad.
Really thankful you shared that great piece about Diné textiles: they are incredible. Kevin Aspaas also has a great lecture he gave at the School for Advanced Research if folks wanna learn more.