The Material Review

Issue 050: Vintage Hunting Jackets, The Authentic Brands Group Empire, Being Bland, Spotlight On: Upgraded Bath Items and a Q&A with Michael B. Dougherty.

Stories worth reading. Stop indexing the internet.

On the Hunt for the Perfect Vintage Jacket

“These pieces were designed for shooting way back when, but they look just as good engaged in more peaceful pursuits today.” [Esquire]

Meet the Man Who Made a Fortune Bringing Brands Back to Life

“Brooks Brothers. Reebok. Elvis. Jamie Salter has built a multibillion-dollar empire acquiring distressed brands and undervalued IP—and he’s still shopping for more.” [WSJ]

Men, would you wear a ballet shoe?

“One dedicated wearer says it’s time to give the dance slipper a spin” [FT]

This Is The Golden Age of Old Folks Selling New Clothes

[Highsnobiety]

Going Dull

“Being interesting is a burden. Is there relief in choosing to be bland?” [NY Mag]

A shortlist of things we’ve got our eye on.

Crafted With Pride: A Directory of Made in USA Gear

Concours Jacky Western Shirt

Sentinel DELTAPEAK Freemo Hood

Reproduction of Found French Military Trainer

CW&T Solid State Watch

Bath Upgrades

The Weaving Mill Linen Bath Towels

Tekla Fabrics Terry Hooded Bathrobe

Na Nin Hinoki Forest Candle

Ishikoro Pebble Stone Bath Mat

Frama Herbarium Hand Wash

Michael B. Dougherty is a menswear writer and brand consultant. Fresh off the release of his latest book, the revised Handbook of Men’s Style, Michael sat down with us to discuss “Dad’s Style,” his under-the-radar workhorse roller bag, and what he’s been reading.

What’s a memorable recent purchase you’ve made?

For The Handbook Of Men's Style launch party I treated myself to a Kapital Ringoman Coverall in denim that I'd been eyeing for some time. That alone would have made it memorable, but what made it special is that finding one was a joint effort between me and Jonathan Evans, Esquire's Style Director and a great friend. On two separate trips to Japan I sent him hunting to multiple Kapital locations, only to strike out every time. I finally tracked it down at London's excellent Garbstore, and after it arrived, I shot him a pic. His response was to immediately grab one himself, so now we both have it. 

What is your favorite menswear era or aesthetic?

Jesus, that's a hard one, like asking me for my favorite music genre. I won't give you the copout answer of, "I like them all," but I will tell you that I think a lot about dad style, now that I am one, but more from the angle of the old Free & Easy "Dad's Style" issues. Grey New Balance and wide chinos may be everyone's default these days but I love it when you see them in the wild on a guy who clearly has been rocking the look for decades, blissfully unaware that he's an aesthetic now. I've always had a soft spot for workwear too, in all its iterations, for the simplicity, practicality, and ease of wear. 

ID your carry-on bag?

I know I'm supposed to say, my perfectly broken-in Filson Medium Rugged Twill Duffle in navy, but there's no way I'm lugging that through JFK. Instead, I reach for my L.L.Bean roller bag. It was sort of a clearance section oddity, as it had a more rugged look than any of their other luggage, with these big, treaded wheels and an overbuilt handle. But in probably a decade plus of service it's lost exactly one zipper pull. That's it. 

What's a current niche brand you love?

I'm a big fan of Earth/Studies' approach to outdoor apparel since it's so high-concept and it aligns with my personal dad style of "absurd pockets." Also, as someone who has created messaging for a million brands I admire how unique and quirky their voice is. 

What are you reading / what do you subscribe to?

Hip-Hop Is History by Questlove. My wife surprised me with tickets to see a reading of it at the Brooklyn Academy of Music and it was rap nerd heaven. I like to say that if you had one of Questlove's stories it would be the only thing you ever told at parties. But all of his stories are like that.